How everything started? Far, far away, in 1520 under full sails Magellan went really close south edges of South America. Above one from islands he saw glow of fire so he named that island Tierra del Fuego. But true is that not ground was on fire but Indians spend night near fires and they want to dry skins which they hunted.

497 years later, on iron boat SCANIA I sailed there. In that difference that on asphalt river and our sails where fulfilled not by strong wind as today but fumes of oil. In the night we are rolling through turnpikes and directly we are going to party of friends from Bruno. Meat, music, drinks, biggest grill that I ever saw in home (like from King Arthur) and sunrise which showed thing which is the best in Ushuaia – nature!

Ushuaia (what in language of local Indians mean bay on the edge) is on the end of Patagonia’s cordillera on edge of bay, and that means:

• When you are cleaning dishes at morning you can watch snow on mountains peaks
• At midday you are going to walk near harbor which is going inside city
• At evening you are not hiding from cold wind because in Ushuaia because of shapes of mountains wind is going a little bit calmer. But even that temperatures are not very good – at night is something like 5 degrees but it’s much more colder because humidity is much higher. I spend next 3 nights in small ruin which I found in city center. Everybody have that kind of hotel which can have. And I can have hotel with hundreds of stars because that ruin didn’t had roof.

Unfortunately not only landscapes can transfix but also prizes which are approximately 10-15% higher than on continent. There are two reasons. On that wilderness it’s impossible to harvest anything so they transport everything from north. And second reason are hundreds of tourist which are coming here. On bikes, motorbikes, ships, in cars, trucks, buses and even on plains (every day from airport are few direct flies to Buenos Aires). View of landing and taking of planes among mountain pics is amazing, possibility of talk with persons from probably whole nations also, but view of prices in shops can make thrill. Prices which can be inflated because government to encourage people to settle that lands, liquidated here VAT!

There is a lot of attractions here but not for mine pocket. National Park – 210 pesos. Historic jail – 300 pesos. Cheapest trips on boat to watch whales or birds are starting from 500-600 pesos. That’s why I had fear to land on budget’s shallows and I ended on free attractions: I’ve been on glacier, where is skyward view on whole bay (surprised eyes of other tourist when I passed by them are best proof that still I have shape 🙂 ), cartoon of wine on harbor when I watched how containers and boats are under flags from whole country are going and passing, and of course on small talks with local people.

From top of that glacier I saw also other cities more on south. Argentinian are saying that Ushuaia is most southern city on whole world. People from Chile have different point of view, because few kilometers under Ushuaia is small town Puerto Williams where live 2000 people, and under that is small village with 100 persons. If I need to go to south I need to go to south but prizes (200-400$) thrilled my blood. I thought that I will go even more south. ANTARCTICA! From Ushuaia is going 90% of trips to Antarctica. There is even option to go there in plane! So I’m walking from one to another tour office to ask how much cost cheapest ticket for one tramp. In promotion from 4500$ to 12000$ for 10 days trip with biologists!!!!! I saw 4 persons family and I thought where they found 40000$ 🙁 But I shouldn’t be surprise because when I saw how expansive cloths and backpacks have tourists here I thought that probably in whole my home I don’t have so much cash.

Is almost fall down but there is some special wooden construcion, you see it? 😀

When your mobilephone where you have all maps is out of baterry always you can use truck 🙂

And race Paris Dakar I watched like that

But I heard correctly that is cruise with biologists? So let’s go to port. It’s impossible to go inside port since ticket but biologist like other sea wolfs, need to do on land to drink something in tavern. In one from that place I found one captain and started to talk about that I’m hitchhiker, that I travel with stones, that I from Poland and we have there polar bears on street and we eat ice floe on breakfast. And I don’t have mental illness etc. I saw a fire inside his eyes (I just don’t know that he understand me or that was fire of shot which he drank) but than second captain came, huge like a ice mountain, and whole my plans drowned like a Titanic. But I promise that I will collect money and one day I will go there. Stone from Antarctica, could you imagine that? 😀

Two ships are going to Antarctica. Blue one is for tourists, and red one for biologists. Ticket for blue one – 10000$. For red one – nothing. Which one you will chose?

On edge of world welcomed me another Great Final of The Great Orchestra of Christmas Charity, one from the biggest charity organization in whole world, where also I work as volunteer. Every year we are collecting money on streets to buy equipment for hospitals. I talked with one pub and two hostels and they decided to help and give whole income from that day for our organization. Also I met one local band which decided to play for free. I wanted also to connect by Internet with Poland and show on screens how Great Final looks like in Poland. I wanted because life showed something different. Pub for one day before told me that they have order to prepare some party for company so option to have money for that day passed away. And also possibility for my band. Only two hostels played with us, and because prizes are not so low and was a full of people so we will some cash 🙂 at end of month I will know how much cash we will have from them.

I found that next to entrance to port. War about Malvinas is still fresh here.

You can easly find map of city not only in information center but also on walls 🙂

At the end of the world I met also Justyna and Łukasz from Poland witch on bikes are going through South America. We wanted to meet again on city camping. When I walked with cartoon of vine to meet them, some guy stopped near of me in pickup and asked that I need a help. So we drove together to camp side and than he asked if we will don’t want to spend that night in his home. But we wanted to spend that night in “Polish Home” so we’ve been there. We talked to 3:30 and after I went to some fire with local people.

At next day my bikers went together by hitchhiking with bikes (yeah it’s possible!) to Buenos because Justyna had problems with passport. And I went to my Man in White. On way I found on one from bus station jacket <3 that was a real gift. Finally it will be not cold in night 🙂 Augusto it’s a real nice guy. He live with his son in peak of mountain. He built home by his own, and inside there is climate like from gold rush. Over oven they dried clothes, through aperture wind is blowing and is running away music when we connected my laptop to giant speakers, and in whole mountains you could hear polish sounds. I wanted just to take a shower and run away but finally I spend there 3 days. Guy have inside baker’s oven so every day we had a fresh bread, with saws from under sink we cat tree and our oven was always hot as a hell. Guy is famous because all time is wearing white cloths, and he’s looks like a Jesus. Even underwear had white! Long hairs, old backpacker, good, open heart. That house was so opened that like an Mexican guy who was before me here, I also didn’t wanted to go from here in few next weeks. But I need to go. Direction – Canada!

One from legends of local Indians (which last member died not so long ago) say that no gringo ever can be happy on Tierra el Fuego. When I will think about prizes I can believe in that. But organization and what is most important – nature – are incredible! That’s how could looks like not only ends, but also beginnings and centers of the world 🙂 As my friend wrote: “If that how looks end of the world we don’t have reason to be afraid about hell 🙂