Argentina

Coca, wind and Tierra del Fuego

By on 12 January 2017

I have science proof that I’m wild.

That was when I went walk on mountains in sneakers. And it’s strange mountains because mostly private (how mountain can be private?!) and without trees. Only rocks rocks rocks. I found one peak, Cerro de la Ventana, with famous window in rock. I thought that I can go there just like that, but no! I need to pay for entrance and guide! And I can go only with 10 persons group! Man from shop who Is living here whole life told me in what trail I can go without notice but in different part of mountains. So I’m going with hitchhike to that “other mountains” and couple is saying me that they are going to see that window. So I’m changing my plans, we have group, guide, we gave cash and… on trail! I new that 6 hours trail is possible to do in 3 because our guide is stopping after every 5 minutes to say something about stones 🙁 but view through window – windy and breathtaking.

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Next day I’m trying to climb on highest peak of Buenos Aires region, Cerro Tres Picos, but because of full exposition, not enough water and food, no shadow AND SO HUGE PAIN IN FOOT that I couldn’t do that. Maybe even best because of that I met mountain horses. First they waited far away, but I sat calmly to collect my dropped jaws when I saw that horses and mountains next to them. And after half hour, they step by step came closer and closer. Finally I could touch them 🙂 When I came back to village I asked who is an owner of them. “They are wild, nobody can’t go close to them”. I showed them pictures and they only shakes head said “You need to be real gaucho”. Maybe I’m real Gaucho or I’m so wild as that horses 🙂

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And than looong way to south on road number 3. I could go very fast in many drivers. Even to fast so I jumped out to not go in one car to Tierra del Fuego. As far on south ground were more splat that in truck I felt like on ship in that difference that in radio besides traditional sailors songs were cumbia.

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Interesting is that mesures of whole roads in Argentina are from Point Zero in Buenos Aires. I saw that point, simple small monument on one from squares. But you feel strange when suddenly yo are realize that you are so far away from Buenos where couple days ago you danced tango

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21:40 and we have 1,5 hour light more. Thats proof that we are heading to Arctic Circle

Driver from one truck I will not forget for long time. We started to talk but I can’t understand him because he’s… jawing grass like a cow. He’s driving truck 3 days without stop! How it can be? Because of leaves of coca, which he’s putting like hamster handful by handful into checks. Of course also I putted a lot of leaves in one check, another in another check and like two hamsters we went through Argentinian steps. How it taste? A little bit like a tea, but have very intensive flavor, and you can feel it very long time. How it works? Maybe I don’t know how to suck it but I didn’t felt anything special (maybe only that leaves went between my teeth). But my driver said (what I heard before) that almost everybody in South America are jawing coca to not sleep in car. Because when you are suck coca together with your spit from leaves you can get some organic substance same with is in cocaine. That’s why if they will drink to that bottles of energizer on high they can go many days. I ask that this is legal. In Argentina legal is to have it but illegal to buy it (paradox) but truck drivers can’t eat it during driving truck (but nobody cares about that). Coca you can buy from Bolivians, there coca is a national treasure, it’s strange that they don’t have it on national emblem. It’s depends from seller but can cost from 50 to 150 pesos for 100g in characteristic, green bag. One bag is enough for them to put leaves into checks during 3-4 days. In Bolivia I need to look closer to that topic 🙂

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I’m leaving truck 200km before his destination but I see that my driver is almost sleep in car. I’m bagging him to take rest here, but he’s just saying me that don’t have time, and in the same moment he’s putting another parts of leaves. In another day I didn’t see any crushed truck so now he had lucky, but I saw many drivers who lost his battle and slept on roadside forever.

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It’s a bigger power or coincidence? I’m waiting very hungry on roadside and in the same moment from one pickup is flying out huge part of crust from bread! That was so huge that I fought that maybe it’s a plastic, but I was so hungry that I tried it and didn’t died 🙂 I waited 3 or 4 hours and nobody stopped for me. I started to think about some cartoon to prepare sign and then from other car flew directly under my feet perfect cartoon! Maybe if I could think about pot with gold I can received it? In other place I went on other side of bridge but wind was so strong and cold that I freeze there so I decided to went back. And than I found closed bottle of Schweppes! Point is that I didn’t had a lot of water and this kind of bottle can cost here a lot of cash! In that moment I knew why I freeze there. Is just coincidence, lucky or bigger power? Hard to say but I had many this kind of situation. Maybe I’m not alone in that journey?

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Around 400km before Rio Gallego, last big city before Tierra del Fuego, started zone of cold, wind and bad words. Temperature in night can be around 5 degrees but that wind is blowing day and night, permanently. Sometimes was difficult even to stand on roadside but people told me that now is really cool and can be worst. I wear almost everything what I have – warmest socks, shorts and pants, t-shirt, two jumpers, jacket – and I’m still cold! Weakest points are foots (snickers) and hands because I don’t have gloves. I even tried to buy some in shop, but seller told me that they don’t have it because now is summer here. Worst are nights, looking for place to sleep and crossing fingers to wake up another morning.

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Most important is to find shelter before wind. Can be for example building side 

On road from Rio Gallegos, last bug city before Tierra del Fuego, I met Bruno who is studying on film university in Buenos Aires and first time in life traveled from Buenos to Ushuaia. We made a deal that next beer we will drink in the same day at night in Ushuaia. Argentinian border we crossed perfectly  but Chile side was a little bit worst. Point where we could pass border was in the same building where was a shop so we didn’t know that we can pass there our documents or buy tobacco. On other side took us Argentinian representant in weightlifting. He told that most difficult to challenge are sportsman’s from Poland <proud> and Russia. Together with him we are making landing operation on other side of river and… we are in Tierra del Fuego! It’s raining and is cold but that my first time here so I’m happy! We are making quick jump through Chile and in Argentina we are in two hours. From Rio Grande took us friend from Bruno. She made from Ushuaia two hours in one way only for us! We took a lot of bottles of Budweiser and tucked in night, rain, beers and blues we went to meet Edge of the World…

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I found that on road:

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Everywhere in Argentina are a lot of monuments about war in Malvinas. On every border there are huge bilboards with information that Malvinas are Argentinian. But closer and closer to south there is more and more that king of monuments

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Whole south of Argentina in full of petrol and gas. I saw many equipments to received petrol from under the ground. But why gasoline in Argentina is so expensive?

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2 Comments
  1. Reply

    Sid

    22 October 2017

    Hi Trapez,

    Can you tell me where I can find coca leaves in Ushuaia, Argentina? I’ll be going there end of the this year. Thanks!

    • Reply

      Trapez

      22 October 2017

      Hey 🙂

      Well in Ushuaia it can be quite difficult… Truck driver who I met bought coca leaves from some other Colombian driver. If You want this kind of things You should rather look near north border, in south it can be difficult. Or You can ask truck drivers 😀

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