20-21.02.2018 El Espino 52,44km///2163,12km
When I left home of Cipriano I felt like a zombie. Always time of dying and resurrection after reach of highest peak, take few days. But than I felt terrible! That’s why that was even bigger surprise for me what I decided to do. To closest border I had in that moment something like 20km, and road headed strictly to capital city of Honduras. But I decided to walk to days once again through huge mountain, to enter to Honduras in other border pass. Why? I heard a lot about that country. About guns and drugs, kidnaping and violence. And I worried that it gonna be really dangerous to walk through suburbs of capital. I walked two days through that bloody mountain, but finally I reached border bar. Unfortunately located high in hills… I put passport into office window, they scanned my fingerprints, checked trolley and I’m in new country!
21-23.02.2018 Choluteca 59,8km///2222,92km
Country which from first steps looked a level under Nicaragua. So in every step far away from Panama poverty is bigger. Honduras is one from poorest country which I met during whole my trip! I’m passing villages with home looked like darkest parts of Paraguay. Poverty is spill on streets. Also trash is spilling out! Incredible walls of trash are limited roads from two sides. It’s looks that I moved once again to Bolivia. Maybe Honduras is like machine to bilocation?
But most important are people! They are so open and friendly that I could forget surrounding. Till now when I came to village burking dogs welcomed me. But since Honduras they shout: “Gringo! Hey gringo!”. Almost everybody wave to me. I feel like rock star! They almost lose hand, they wave so strong. Sometimes kids run back to theirs home with shout “Gringo! Gringo!”. First time when I saw that I had fear that local people gonna welcome me there with spears. But than I saw how that kid went inside house and whole family leaved everything what they so in that time to watch at me 😀 White guy pushing trolley – how emotional experience it is for them! People invite me for tortillas and some %. Everyday I speak with dozens of people! It can be exhausting 😀
Also mountain, which I found on other side of border, can exhaust. I fight with them two days. Night also weren’t so easy, because all are fenced with wire! Literally there is no place to camp…
On my road I met car workshop where work Enriquez. I ask if we have old car number plate from El Salvador. All ready I have few of them and it would be cool to increase that collection. I argue a lot with hi but finally I changed my last coin from Poland for almost new plate! I increased value of that late with argument, that is coming from ground of Juan Pablo II 😀 I left my note in his diary, where want to put my coin, and burned with watermelon, bread and nuts, which he gave me, I walked farther.
I rolled across village El Baquito and stop my trolley on front of unique shop there. All benches around where covered by something like 20 guys. There where fathers, uncles, grandfathers, sons and grandsons. No, that wasn’t reunion. I realize that all those guys are living in same village! Whole El Baquito was in hands in one Lopez family. Really friendly family! Guys run to theirs houses for food for me. Or they called to wife, and she brought me meal on porcelain, and completely ashamed me… They gave me even place to sleep in someone garage. I didn’t want to leave that place!
24.02.2018 Choluteca 0km /// 2222,92km
I reached Choluteca city and put my things in home of Juan, and it isn’t normal home. But brand new one house in guarded district. But I found there another proof, that You can move people from village to city, but they still gonna have village inside. That’s why among motley hoses I found chickens and porks, and rest of food they throw around houses on “no man’s land”. Or they just burn them! And that’s another thing which I can’t understand. I speak with them, about problem of trash, they agree with me, and after few seconds they throw that trash once again… Drama!
Also really dramatic was city. Infrastructure looks like war, but it’s not biggest problem. Most of them are sandy, so in whole city there is a lot of dust. Only few roads have asphalt and even there are holes deep to hell. Lack of any touristic spot also isn’t any problem. But people! In many places people looked at me like on walking ATM, or bag with cash. But only here I see in their eyes that they would like to open that bag with knife. On every corner I saw strange guys, who only when I took my mobile phone to take picture, they moved in my direction. When one of them rode on bike next to me, and said something about mobile phone, I looked around where are other, and if I can run away. After few seconds I realize that he want to sell me some mobile phone! I can sure that was stolen. Maybe from different gringo.
I almost don’t have picture from there. I had fear to take it. Maybe I was to scary, or maybe that was so dangerous there? Maybe yes, maybe no. I liked to walk as quick as possible from there and never come back.
26.02.2018 El Laure 27,5km /// 2250,42km
I walk farther and wet road with my sweat. People who I met there told me, that it’s one from hottest regions in Central America. And God how hot was there! Around was only burned ground. Sometimes literally because local farmers put fire without any control. My thoughts condensed and went through leeks. Because of that I done more stops and I could meet more people. During some stop I realized how much people speak here in English! I wondering where they teach it, even in some villages. In local schools they have classes only to 6th grade, so I’m sure that no from education system. So from where? From emigration. Every day I met something like 25 people who were in United States, and mostly they were deportee after 10-15 years. David, who I met during one from stops told me how was his road to American dream.
From Honduras to Mexico they went on bus. Mostly they have cash from family, which believe that in future they gonna receive gifts with green tickets with Washington. There meet guy who gonna organize “jump” over Rio Grande river. Operation cost 2500$ for every want to wanna do that (sometimes told me, that 1500$). In truck they are going through Chihuahua state. In one from shallow places they try to cross river. They have dinghy’s which they use to transport things, old mans, wifes and kids. They help each other as they can. On other side they don’t have any help, so they move to theirs families. That’s why they don’t wanna go to Canada, because they don’t have any family members. And because of cold…
And I asked them, if it’s dangerous to cross border. If they don’t have fear. They told me, that more dangerous isn’t soldier on American side, but Mexican mafia. If they gonna find someone who wanna cross river without their permission, they can kill that person or kidnap, and send request for cash to family.
Similar story I heard from many people, but only David gave me contact to some guy in Mexico who can help me to make jump. It can be valuable thing, if it will be impossible to pass border in official way 🙂
Free tomatos from road side! Mniam 🙂
Thermometer showed 39 degrees, but on hot road there was something like million degrees! My sole fuse and connect with surface. Same was with my thoughts… I walked 41 km across desert. Only what I thought about was to put my tent and die there.
First I wanted to camp on small, strange cemetery. But I met there few strange guys, with necrophilia hobby, so I left them I walk to find another place. Finally I found another place on conflagration. Bingo! I wait on road side to wait when gonna be darker when suddenly, from SPA on other side came Jarvin. “Come to me. I’m owner of that center!”.
I was dirty, sandy, sweaty and I looked there completely like from other world. But even that I received big meal like for king, and all afternoon I spend in few swimming pools builded in the middle of desert. And in the night, when everybody went to home, I camped near one of them, and with beers, which Jarvin gave me as a gift, I sat on chair with guard, and we looked on coyotes running on conflagration.
From homeless guy who wanted to sleep on conflagration…
… to king of SPA 🙂
Jarvin took picture of his family and some homeless polish backpacker 🙂
26-28.02.2018 El Amatillo 62,2km///2312,62km
I’m passing near by another middle cities where always some strange guys stick to me. More and more I think, that Honduras is like country of two states. Cities, state of permanent risk. Villages, state of chill and peace.
It’s not a water seller. He just have few friends in home and want to give them “some” water. I think that’s enough 😀
In Nacaome I spend night in fire station. And that was most crazy fire squad where I was. Together with guys, and smallest girl – fire fighter who I met, we put huge fire under that place 😀 That was really good time! Time of inspiration, because that station was like a hub for many travelers. Few weeks ago, there came girl from Sweden who walked from Mexico only with backpack and… dog! What a crew 🙂
All cars here are from different countries. Also from Asia so they have steering wheel on right side 😀
Thats how we can work 😀
Next to me many cars stopped and drivers asked me if I want to ride with them. I say them thank You and I rolled farther my trolley. It’s really difficult because back of pickup always is really attractive. Also some family had stopped next to me. They told me, that road which is going from border with Salvador to inside of Honduras, is still under construction! So I will need to walk across whole El Salvador and enter once again to Honduras to reach highest peak of that country.
But to that moment I sat down in front of some shop on chairs made with car’s tires. After moment I realize, that in that village also live only one family which decided to do everything for me. I get small but comfy room and shower! And next day I was on border with El Salvador. Long time I thought what to do – if to go through new country or to try pass that road under construction. But I know in how bad shape my tires, are so I didn’t wanted to risk that I gonna cut my tires absolutely. So I walked to border, put passport in office window and I was in El Salvador.