That wasn’t so easy to leave La Junta. Maybe because main road is closing for few hours every day. But finally I went first with road engineer and couple from Italy. I had two options: go a little more north on Carretera Austral or jump to Argentina to walk a little bit in mountains. I decided to walk on mountains, and that was extremely important decision for my next days.

On border in the middle of nowhere officer said that at morning was here other guy from Poland but he went south. That’s proof that is a lot of backpackers from Poland here. (because I crossed border with Argentina few times I count free pages in my passport and number of countries witch I want to visit. Thanks god I have enough space 🙂 And that’s important because in that passport I have visa to USA. In that passport, not in new one ). I’m going out and think how for god sake in this field I will find car. And than there is waiting for me guy outside and asking me if I want to go to the city! That’s what I like! Night in Esquel I spend in old locomotive. I had fear about wind and rain and that more than 100 years old mobile was like huge invite. In two next cars, from witch last one was pick up from witch I brought also cold, I came to Bariloche.

City like in Zakopane – with amount of tourists. And mountains? They are somewhere, I even saw some of them but to go there I should use public bus which is working only with SUBE card (another cost, because my card from Buenos Aires I gave for some girl from gas station). I had also energy crisis. I tried to walk somewhere but I didn’t had power, factor of good food. I decided to go on the other side of lake. I wanted to camp on beach but last time I decided to try my lucky and than stopped for me amazing couple with theirs one and half years old kid. For them small VW T2 is whole home. Literally. She’s from Argentina, he’s from Chile and they are passing border many times to find good place to buy ground for home. We’re going to border but because it’s already closed (first time in my life I saw borer closed for some hours) we are camping under the gate. Officer is telling us that they have dogs on border so if we have some drugs inside we should “do something with it” on this side of gate. After complex searching of ours car (my couple need to pay around 500$ because they had honey, seeds of mustard and some wooden sticks which they didn’t declared. In air of Chile still You can feel ghost of Pinochet). That was time to decide where I will go with them. I had two options: go directly north to reach Santiago, or do turn and went back 300km on south to visit Chiloe Island. I wanted to leave that thing to faith. And faith gave me that couple who went directly to Chiloe! So here we go! We are a little bit like a Carol Dunlop and Julio Cortazar in theirs adventures from book “Autonauts of the Cosmoroute” when we are stopping on road sides and bus stops, putting out dishes and presenting in full size wings of car. Other travelers came to ask about car, to see how is inside, and to walk back to theirs cars with jealousy.

Chiloe is the biggest after Tierra del Fuego islands of Chile. Country in country with own culture, traditions, clothes, architecture and climate. Around that island there is a lot of other smallest one on which You can go only by small ships. And on one from them we came as one from the last. But I didn’t wanted to go more so I say to crew if they can wait. “Yeah, sure” they said and after that gates were closed and we went! You want or not You must go with us 😀 On ship we met Sebastian who gave as for night pace to stay in home! That was faith! And that was so good that that gate was closed because that ship took us to completely different world.

World of small villagies with colorfull houses on pales on which hilly and twisting streets You can have vertigo. Many of houses have more than 100 years and even now they can enjoy eyes.

World of small fish markets with fresh clams, oysters, and many kinds of fish. Since many generations people here were fishers. At morning almost whole villages are going in boats to fishing, when draining is coming women are going on beach to search crabs, and on night on bays between islands you can see lights of shoal of clams. Dishes prepared from fruits of mar are awesome!

My driver who invited me to amazing restaurant… of course on pales 🙂

World of amazing folk witch I saw during some music festival on one from island. When I paid 2000 pesos for entrance and when I saw band 70+ on stage I thought: what had You done! But that was bulls eye! Theirs music is like pure madness, and inn dancing You can brake legs. Fresh music and interesting and funny lyrics. Is interesting that in that society women is playing on drum to give rhythm. Good mirror of real power in community 🙂

World of abandoned island. From continent together with my couple I went to Chiloe. Than with other ship to Tolquien, from there in another boat to Capilla Lingua and from there to some island without name which was deserted! 100 x 200m of pure freedom and wilderness! First ship should come after 3 days so when I threw conventions and clothes. Good, but lonesome time. When I search my small village, with I added to Poland, I found a lot of fridge (empty) and bushes with blackberries (full). A lot of them! I just sat and eat!

Thats my island. 

Everywhere I found huge bushes of blueberry. Huuuuuuge one!

World of incredible churches. I met on continents who told me that they are looks like in Europe and it’s waste of time to see them. Thanks God I didn’t listen him! On island is 62 of wooden churches and 16 from them are on World Heritage List UNESCO. I had thrills when I came to them! All of them are made by wood and that’s incredible that after 150 years in oceanic climate they are in so good shape. Main parts are the same but they have different facade. Society who build that churches are mostly fishers so that churches are like theirs boats! They had knowledge and materials to build it so on gauge of churches and ships is easy to see the same techniques. For example ceiling is like boat putted upside down! Every church have different detail works, some of them have stars on ceiling, other collection of prie-dieu and others dried flowers. Boats/churches. You need to see that!

When I came back to main island Chiloe I looked for some place to camp. I saw girl with backpack in front of supermarket and I knew that in almost every city in Chile are places where whole backpackers are gathering, so I asked her if she know some. With two other her friends we went to some field where besides as camped around 40 persons! 40 backpackers who sang song around fire whole night!

I saw also show of Chilean Air Force and I went south because guy who I met on main square told me some interesting facts. In last city on island is a place where everything is ending and everything is beginning, where point 0 have Panamerican Highway! Traditional picture, beer and cold empanadas, two stones – one for home and other I want to put in Alaska on other edge of that road – and I wanted to move when …. 4 days of rain came 🙁 I tried to hitchhike but literally water washed me down from road. So I adapted beauty spot in coast line in my home.

And from here I write that words and watch in the same time how boats are coming back with clams, thinking about more than 21000km of adventures to Alaska and when, for God sake, it will stop raining.

I FOUND THAT THINGS ON ROUTE:

Free karaoke on the street? Why not! Who cares about rights for songs 😉