Christmas over Tropic of Capricorn

A lot happened since last post. I learned…

… how to drive Ford Falcon from 1975. First stop after Buenos Aires I made in Mercedes. There is completely nothing to see in that small city beside neo-gothic cathedral (when I’ve been there sunset through stained glass window colored inside and choir practiced his voices). And probably I could have completely no memories from that place if I wouldn’t meet Alexis – my Couchserfer host which I found there. That guy have tattoo studio and real history of motorization. 6-cylinder, 16l/100km, One and a half ton of history of motorization. A lot of that kind of Ford Falcons you can meet here on roads but it’s completely different to see it and to drive it. I’m so tired but I’m sitting in front of wheel and we are going into dark night. From paper cascade empanadas and from scratchy radio Argentinian rock. I almost can’t see sandy road because we have broken lights, first gear I can put only in special way, but I have eyes big like a moon every time when I accelerate engine. How power have that machine! And how sound! With every drop of oil which I burned that night my dream came true 🙂

… that it’s possible to go through all Argentina in 3 cars. First I met a builder employee with whom I can go 1500km to Patagonia (we exchange numbers and I have a place in his home 🙂 ), and few days later ship mechanic with who I can do around 1000km. But the best was Julio who can take me… 200km before Ushuaya! But that don’t have sense that why I left him after 300km.

Julio

… that one Santa Clause don’t exist, because there is a lot of them! People gave a lot of things – apricots in can, glasses, Christmas cake, charger, cable USB, sandwiches and even shoes! Gimme a lit bit more time and I will complete whole home (even with wife). Girl on patrol station when I wanted buy bottle of water and I couldn’t pay with my cards, just gave me that bottle. “You will not have any problems with that?” I asked. “Nooo, don’t worry, it’s my gift for you”. In one from Carrefours I didn’t had bag to care things (usually in Argentina you can’t find plastic bags in supermarkets. What a great thing after Brazil and Paraguay where they putted every thing even in two or three bags! ). I could buy big, plastic bag but what is obvious I didn’t want that so cashier just gave me that! And another time my worried voice if he will not have any problems with that. “Maybe I will, who cares. It’s my gift :D”.

… that it’s good to have dynamic plan of route. My family which took me from road turn to some small village. I went with them and suddenly… I became a legend of that place 🙂 Guamini have around 10 thousand habitants and one from biggest fresh water tank in Argentina. When I sat in park two girls came to me and asked if I want to join to them. So we swam through city. How was it? In short version I can say that when I woke up next day (and that was something around 7pm) and I went to local bar to count damages all people inside started to shout “Polaco! Polaco!”. Old guys in village told me that people from Poland should most frequently come there because long time there wasn’t so big party 🙂

… that Atlantida exist. I’m coming to Carhue, amazing city near Epecuen lake. First it’s… salt lake with so big amount of salt that you can’t drown there. Above that place many years ago was a salt mine that’s why now whole water is like salt spring. And because healthy properties of that place are famous that’s why a lot of rheumatics are coming to spend time on local ugly beaches. But that water can also destroy what proofed in 1985. Then government decided to connect with canal next lakes what increased level of water in Epecuen lake. That’s why after huge rain waters came above levee and flouted whole most famous SPA in Argentina. When water came down in 2009 nobody wanted to back there (besides Pablo Novak who is living there alone even today!), and abandoned city is fascinating and scary in same time. You can visit that city and pay something like 50 pesos so I jumped through fence and visited it for free 🙂

… that Argentina is worst place to spend Christmas and other parties. Because people in Argentina are very antychristmas. Here you can read how I spend my Christmas: [https://www.facebook.com/StonesOnTravel/photos/pcb.633440710171247/633439843504667/ ]. But how they spend that time? Unfortunately that night is like every other party for them. I’m asking boy who is working is ice cream shop and where I had a shelter against rain, where they are starting to eat, because I see that square still is full of kids, wife and husbands and I want to make there my Christmas table. “Well, it’s depends from family. It can be 12,13 or 15. How you want”. And what they eat? Nothing special, table is full of meat. There is Christmas tree and gifts but they also give them in various time. At 8pm there is “special” celebration in church, but it’s also looks very common. So there is no special traditions and also Christmas climate. But most interesting is when midnight is coming. In TV you can watch some special program where stars are singings theirs hits. You can see there also clock which is showing time to midnight. Last ten seconds everybody are counting and at midnight greetings each other Marry Christmas with glasses of champagne 😀 Above houses fireworks. I thought that we are celebrating New Year! And after that traditional beers, music, dances. Even people from Argentina told me that Christmas is just another party.

So how they are celebrating New Year? That was my dream to spend that night on beach so I though one in small village. Unfortunately an that night wind was so strong that everybody went from beach very quickly. But not me 😀 When came midnight I started shout and dance alone on beach, fireworks popped and alarm sirens gave a sound. Amazing experience! But another time, Argentinian don’t meet on main squares to celebrate together. That night they are spending in theirs houses. How different, how strange in comparing to Poland or Brazil where streets are fulfilled by parties.

… that police as guns need free minutes. I’m camping to spend night in center of small village in mountains and to count stars. At night woke me up some guy from police to ask about my papers (he put his light so deeply in my eyes that I wanted to through to him with one of my sandals). Alone on patrol (so strange because always they are in two) he looks like from village police station. Gun putted above belt, two different shoes and shirt with empanadas dirt. I’m giving him that papers and he’s putting out cellphone to call somewhere.  To police station. “Why you are not using radio station in car? Always by cellphone?” I’m asking. “And because when I’m using radio station I can hear everything what is going around”. That’s how you should use it, I’m thinking but asking “But they are giving you cash for used minutes?”. “No, because I’m calling on emergency number, Is free”. “Yeah, but what if someone else will want to call in the same moment? You will block line!”. “No, he can call. Or if not he can wait”. Tadaaaaam!