20-21.04.2018 Malacatancito 77,9km///3773,82km
Road from Xela to border with Mexico go directly down. In mountain, switchback, covered from two sides with small houses should lead me 2500m down. But first extremely destroyed by truck piece of road, pit-stop in bakery when I received for free bag of bread (I start to look like duck or what? 😀 ) and searching for place to camp. Night came with heavy, dark clouds and I couldn’t found any roof to stay night under it. When finally I found perfect roof and go to shop next to it, to ask there for permission, lady who worked there stopped when she saw me. It’s funny and strange in same time. But worst was reaction of Marco, head of family, who said that he just rent that home and he can’t decide who can camp here, and who not. He can’t or he don’t want to, I fought and I moved to camp near bus stop. After few minutes Marco came on bicycle and told me, that I can stay near their house. Family barricade inside and I put myself into my sleeping bag. I had some strange dream about laundry. But it’s nothing strange if I dodder like washing machine. That was really cold night!
I was awaken by turkey and wave of cold. I walked in really good shape, because views were incredible. But definitely not fast because, I felt like in golf course. In that difference that was con asphalt and didn’t had 18 holes but 1800. I can’t describe how bad was that road, and even pictures can’t show that. My stroller can describe it best but thankfully can’t talk.
Not only views are changing but also languages. Almost in every village I hear different dialect. They are connected with one thing – I don’t understand single word 😀 Unfortunately I don’t have many opportunities to learn them because folks when they see me literally run away. When women see me, they run quickly to houses, and in villages I was welcomed not with dog’s burking but with cry of kids. I know that I look like homeless guy but for God sake! Finally I asked one guy on bus stop what’s going on here. And thing is, that local folks believe, that gringos are coming here to steal their kids. Or to cut theirs heads and sell them on market in United States! What an absurd! But it’s even more strange if we gonna add, that I walk with baby stroller covered with black foil 😀
I rolled into small city called Malacatancito. This place have ideal size, ideal size have local church, and besides gate is ideal square to camp. Perfect! I came into sure that I can stay there, but priest said… no. Why? Because not! That was first priest on my road who said that I can’t stay in church, so thats why note about him need to have place here. I didn’t care about him, and I spend that night near radio tower. It’s interesting that change altitude in 1000m can also change climate so dramatically. Last night I almost died because was so cold, and now because of mosquitos.
22.04.2018 Colotenango 41,4km///3815,22km
Next day of rolling down. Drivers are passing next to me blowing my hairs, and I run across fields and villages and blow curtains in windows. Suddenly something touched me to stop in front of one of them. I met there Marcelo, who invited me to his home. I love that moment when I walk inside through tiny doors and all small family rise up surprised eyes 😀 We talk, took some pictures and moved on! Into forest. Road go softly between hills where trees are touching sky. Villages looks like few houses on two sides of only in that region road. Small cross roads are like huge communication centers, and single shops to cultural centers, labor office and medical point in same place.
In front of almost every home women prepare clothes on looms. It takes even two months to prepare one skirt. I can go to museum of textile in San Cristobal and see mannequins which “do” same things, but it’s not the same! Those ladies are one from many reasons that walking is best speed to know world. If I could travel in bus, car, motorbike or even classic bikes, I couldn’t see them. Probably I could miss also really cheap peanuts – 0,7$ for bag! I could miss also small waterfalls or river with small, wooden bridges.
And definitely I could miss Lazaro and Orwin from patrol station. They talked a little bit and they gave me permission to sleep on same station. I already done it but I never slept so close to gas pump. If I could have longer hands I could use them from my tent 😀 I found there also shower and socket so I could even live there for ever.
23.04.2018 Santo Domingo 35,7km/// 3850,92km
Family from shop saw me yesterday on patrol station and today I had free shopping in their place! That was really cool, because I was almost without cash. I walk down and down passing coffee seedlings and finally I almost crushed on wall of BEAUTIFUL smell of coffee flowers. It’s impossible to describe smell of that flowers…
Little lower I met first foreigner bikers. Miacinta and Frank (57 and 63 years old) in more than year rolled across 11000km on road from Canada to Ushuaia in Argentina. That’s power! That was really cool to meet and talk a little bit about road, problems, places to visit.
Finally I walked into Santo Domingo. Area near border and I have no idea how is here with security, so I move to church. Before city I see some center with cross. I go there, quick talk and I have place for night under roof, with shower and socket! And warning: “If Yu gonna hear shooting, don’t leave that building”. Before I heard them I jumped out to shop near by where I met incredible Pedro, Mario and Luis, who gave me for free beverage and some coins. And couple who sold bread in villages, and they gave me almost for nothing whole plate of cake! Last night in Guatemala was like Christmas Time.
24.04.2018 San Gregorio 38,6km/// 3889,52km
I’m on border. A lot of Gringos, folks who are changing cash and dozens of people crossing border without any control. Officer on side of Guatemala laughed when saw my picture in Passport. Yeah, now I’m completely different. But that one on Mexican side (what is interesting Mexican control point is in other village) even didn’t looked at me, when I asked why he gave me visa only for 90 days if I can have it for 180 days. He was more interested with football match in television… Well, it doesn’t matter, later I will worry with that. Now VIVA MEXICO!
First really bad road has changed in best road since my time in Panama! Drivers sometimes use road side as a third line. I’m passing next to whole trees with funny, small fruits which looks like small apples. Funny was also prize of bag of that fruits. 10 pesos! First night I spend next to waving on wind field of corn. That was strange that I didn’t had dreams with popcorn.
25.04.2018 Petrol station near La Gloria 22,8km/// 3912,32
In first village once again I’m in spotlight, but my eye catch small shop with… magic items. Once again I feel like in Bolivia. Soaps, shampoos and perfumes on everything what is happening with You body and soul. For stretch marks and weak heart. For problems with love and with cash. And even for students to pass exams on university. I met there Carlos, who invited me for some tacos to his place. That were first tacos since 6 years and still they have amazing flavor!
I passing next to people in siesta time under trees and tiny shop where it’s possible to use… Wi-Fi 😀 I camped in other petrol station, where guys gave me some tacos but also they looked on my cellphone. That night I slept with knife under my hand…
Church like from Kill Bill
26.04.2018 Francisco Sarabia 34,4km/// 3946,72km
I heard a lot about Chiapas. But I had completely different vision of that state, as a jungle, but in mid time I sweat on dry mountains. Where is green?! Maybe it gonna come with rain season, but I hope I will far away from here.
I’m passing next to many advertisement slogans painted on rocks, political on walls and warnings putted on road signs. It’s incredible that rain which acme didn’t flushed it down. I was completely wet! Even my underwear 😀 That’s why when I came to village Francisco Sarabia automatically I looked for some roof to camp under it. I found some near church, so I looked for someone who worked there. Half hour and 5 kilometers which I done in village later, finally I found chef of that place. And he said that I can’t do that! Damn, so why I spend so much time. Finally I found some place under different roof, but because whole building was painted in same day when I came there so I painted also myself and my clothes 😀
Next day I should change into Indiana Jones and penetrate first Maya temples on my road. I didn’t knew that I will left there part of my heart.